Cycling High Asia: February 2011

Friday, February 18, 2011

Cycling the High Mountains of Asia

From the Celestial Mountains to the Golden Earth

Introduction
I've been thinking of this cycling journey for some time now. I've had 3 separate cycling trips in Tibet and explored the Himalaya from that side, both on bike and on foot. The embryonic idea for this trip came out of those very stimulating rides in the shadow of the Himalaya. After completing the 14,000km ride down the Andean mountain chain in South America in 2008-9, the trans-Himalayan traverse was an obvious sequel.

http://www.actionaid.org/

This trip will also be a fund-raising ride for ActionAid, a global NGO fighting poverty and injustice in the developing world. Click on the link above to read more about ActionAid.

Click on the link below to find out how you can donate to this worthwhile cause through this charity ride. http://www.gofundraise.com.au/transasia
At the end of this post you can read about my personal link with ActionAid in Myanmar (Burma) and why I chose this NGO as the charity to fundraise for.

Central Asia - a very brief geography/history lesson
For years I've been poring over maps depicting the contorted and crumpled topography of Central Asia. It's not just the physical landscape which is complex but also the political and ethnic make up of the region. The Stans, as they are now known to travellers, were just an invention of Stalin as he took his scissors to the map and cut out 5 republics, based very crudely on their ethnic composition - Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kirghizstan and Kazakhstan. I will visit the last four of these countries, but leave the deserts of Turkmenistan untravelled and lost to the sands.

The Mountain Ranges of Asia
Two main mountain ranges, the Tien Shan and the Pamirs stretch along the eastern flank of the Stans. The Tien Shan (or Celestial Mountains) separate Kazakhstan and Kirghizstan from Xinjiang province, China, while the Pamir range is a massive block of high peaks in eastern Tajikistan forming a barrier to Afghanistan and southern Xinjiang.

Another range, straddling the Afghan and Pakistan border is the Hindu Kush (with the ominous translation of 'Hindu Killer'). I won't be attempting to ride into Afghanistan but will cycle under the Hindu Kush from Gilgit to Chitral in Pakistan.

The most formidable of all the ranges is undoubtably the Karakoram. In a relatively small area there are five 8000m peaks looming over the glacier highways and the rugged, austere mountainscape. I visited this area in 1988 and have longed to return to 'The Throne of the Gods' as they are known to the local Balti people.

The final range will be the Himalaya itself, stretching from the dry moonscape environment of Ladakh/Zanskar to the lush sub-tropical forests of Sikkim, Assam and Burma. I'm not exactly sure where the Himalayan range actually comes to a geological end in the east so I'll have to do some more research. From a personal and sentimental perspective, I'd like to finish the trans-Himalayan cycling journey under Hkakabo Razi, at 5889m, the sacred mountain of Khampa Tibetans and the highest peak in Burma(Myanmar). Looming above the Mekong and Salween gorges, it was such an impressive peak when I saw it in 2003 and again in 2006 on my Tibetan rides. Below is a photo of Hkakabo Razi which I took in 2003 from above Deqin, Yunnan, with Tibetan prayer flags, stupa and pilgrims. The last of the ice mountains.

Here is a map of the Greater Himalaya, showing the main mountain ranges of Asia. The location of the ranges are not so accurate (eg the Karakoram range doesn't stretch to the Nepalese border, and the Pamirs should be in Tajikstan). However, it's a simple, basic map with all the main ranges clearly shown.
1 click on the map to enlarge, 2 clicks for X-large.

Go to this link with an interactive map and move over the Himalayan range to find my route.
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Pakistan/The-Great-Himalaya-Mountain-Range/map-the-great-himalaya-mountain-range.html

On the map move the cursor NE (drag the hand up and to the right) until you come to Urumqi. Now move west over the Tien Shan into Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Locate the lake, Issyk Kul, then move across to Bishkek, over a few 3000m hills and onto Tashkent, Samarkand & Dushanbe. Move over the Pamirs, following the Afghan border (careful now!), sneak into Kirghizstan and over the Irkeshtam pass to Kashgar, China. From here to Tashkurgan, over the Khungerah pass and down the Karakoram Highway to Gilgit. Follow the Indus river to Skardu and circle back to Gilgit skirting around Nanga Parbat. From Gilgit over to the valleys of the Hindu Kush (Shhh now)and down to Chitral and Islamabad. That's 6 months of cycling...the rest is History (or Geography)...only Time will tell.

The Cycling Route in more detail.........
I will begin my trip in Urumchi, Xinjiang China. Initially I was going to start the journey from Iran but I had so many hassles getting an Iranian visa and faced with the logistical nightmare of Turkmenistan, I decided to enter Central Asia from the east. I had first thought to stretch my cycling legs in the Altay Shan on the border of Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan but it's far north of Urumchi and there are few roads so close to the sensitive border. Most likely it would be better hiking country. It's also quite separate from the Greater Himalayan system so I'll start the trip from the Tien Shan.

Leaving Urumchi early April (I can't be more precise as I'll have to wait for a Kirghiz visa), I'll cross the Tien Shen and cycle to Yining. Cross the border with Kazakhstan- only a week or two here. I might sniff out some nice cycling routes in the foothills of the Tien Shen and may get a permit to trek under Khan Tengri ('Lord of the Skies'), at 7010m the second highest peak in the range. It straddles the borders of China, Kazakhstan & Kirghizstan so it may be off limits. Perhaps there's an easier approach from the Kirghiz side. Also in Kirghizstan I might be able to get up to the base camp of the highest peak, Pik Pobedy at 7439m.

It may be too early for any real exploration of the Tien Shan so I want to focus on the Pamirs. Due to the weird jumble that is the political divisions of states here, I'll have to approach Tajikistan from Uzbekistan by a very circuitous route. But at least I'll get to see the famed city of Samarkand and wait for the snow to melt in the Pamirs.

A month or so in Kirghizstan. Cross the border by Issyk Kul lake and ride to Bishkek the capital. Another wait for a visa (Uzbek 7-10 days!), then a ride across the mountains and into the Fergana valley and onto Tashkent. Get my Tajik visa there and ride to Samarkand. The nearby border to Tajikistan is closed presently but I want to cross here in early June and ride over the Fan Mountains and into Dushanbe.

In Dushanbe, more visas and permits (GBAO- for the border area with Afghanistan). Then the famous cycle route over the 750km 'Pamir Highway'. This should be the highlight of the trip and I want to spend a month or more so exploring this remote and spectacular area. If I have enough time I want to get into the Wakhan valley and some trekking sidetrips up to the base camps of the high peaks (incl. Pik Communism 7495m &/or Pik Lenin 7134m), as well as up to the Fedchenko glacier, the longest river of ice outside the polar regions.

Cross back into Kirghizstan for a brief interlude and then ride over Irkestham pass back into China and down to Kashgar. This should be around mid-July or so and will be the end of stage one - Central Asia.

From Kashgar, I will ride to Tashkurgan and take bus transport to the Khungerah pass on the Pakistan/China border (the Chinese prohibit cyclists on this route) and then cycle down to Sust via the Karakoram Highway. I spent three months here in 1988 trekking in the Karakoram Mts. and was enthralled with the immensity and sheer beauty of the place. Depending on time and security issues, I'd like to do a circuit from Gilgit to Skardu and back via the Deosai plateau and Nanga Parbat. The second bike route will be over to Chitral from Gilgit and some exploring in the Hindu Kush. These 2 routes will get me close to some of the high peaks of the two ranges, and hopefully for some short trekking opportunities. It all depends on the security situation in Nth Pakistan though.

And last, but not least, the Himalaya. There are many possibilities and options for cycling in the Himalayas. I haven't decided on a route yet but I might have to forgo the Indian Himalaya and the Ladakh/Zanskar region because of climate and time pressures. The Manali-Leh road is very popular with cyclists. It was thought that Khardung La pass on this route was the highest motorable pass in the world but the Indians were found to be cheating (that's just not cricket,is it?) and is only a paltry 5359m. Check out this link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khardung_
The roads in the Jammu/Kashmir area have heavy military traffic in the short supply season so I'm not too keen on this one. Also I don't think I will have the time or weather on my side.

Nepal may be a better option in October and November. I could cycle up to Muktinath and trek up to Dhalugiri base camp. Or fly to Lhasa and cycle the Friendship Highway back to Kathmandu. Unfortunately you now have to do this with permits and a driving escort. It was such a wonderful ride when I did it in 2006 as an inspiring solo ride over the Himalaya.

Then onto Sikkim, Arunchal Pradesh, Burma. Not sure where to finish. I would love to reach the base of Mt. Hkakabo Razi on the border of Burma and Yunnan, China. This peak at 5889m, is probably the last gasp of the Greater Himalaya and the last ice mountain above the tropical jungle.

- fighting poverty and injustice

- raising funds and awareness

I was very privileged to work for ActionAid in Myanmar (Burma) in 2010 as English language support for staff. I was also very fortunate to be able to go on a trip with ActionAid staff to the Ayerwaddy delta region to write case studies and take photographs. The area was devastated by Cyclone Nargis in 2008 and over 2 million people were left homeless. I was very impressed with the projects which ActionAid had been involved with there and inspired by the hard work and commitment of the staff and volunteers of this organisation. I have chosen to raise funds and awareness for ActionAid because it targets those most vulnerable, whether as a result of poverty or injustice.

The mountains I have to climb on this journey are small compared to the hardships the poor and vulnerable of the world face in their daily lives. Even though their mountains are high and formidable they are not insurmountable. Please give generously to this worthwhile cause.

http://www.gofundraise.com.au/transasia

You can read more about ActionAid on their homepage
http://www.actionaid.org/

Past Cycling Trips (2) The Andes of South America (2008-9)

THE ANDES
From the Caribbean Sea to the tip of Patagonia
13,823kms
69 degrees of latitude
136,000 vertical metres climbed

This trip was broken (literally) into two parts:

Jan - June 2008 - I cycled solo from Colombia to northern Peru until I had a nasty accident and cracked my colarbone on the dusty road to Huanuco.

May - Dec 2009 - After surgery and all, I returned to Peru with my best little mate Judy and we cycled from Huaraz, Peru to Punta Arenas, Chilean Patagonia. By the way, Judy has recently claimed acknowledgement/copyright on the last 7 photos (and quite rightly so too!).

For more photos, text and maps go this link
http://andesbybike.blogspot.com/

MAPS of the ROUTE
Click on the maps to enlarge

Colombia 2008

Ecuador 2008

Peru 2008
Look for the red star where I had the accident and the trail of blood to Lima

Peru 2009
Back again where I left off....

Bolivia 2009

Sorry, I can't find my Chile/Argentina maps. Go the link above.

Climbing the highest pass of the trip Abra Huallasca, 4870m over the Cordillera Blanca, Peru

Sierra del Cocuy, Colombia

Laguna de la Sierra, El Cocuy, Colombia

Quechuan girl, Cordillera Huayhuash

Dawn in Cordillera Huayhuash

Vicunas & Volcan Parinacota, Nth. Chile

Torre del Paine at dawn, Chile Patagonia

Mt. Chimbarazo, Ecuador

Icicles on the bike at Paso de Hachado, Argentina

Stuck in the mud on a pass above Huamachuco, Peru

Cuernos del Paine, Chile

Riding along an ancient path in Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia

On the Bolivian altiplano, Mt Sajama (6542m) in the background

Chilean Patagonia - Cerro Castillo

On the Chilean altiplano - lucky to find some fresh roadkill! Check out the dead grouse (tinamou) strapped to the pannier. I found it dead by the side of the road. it was still warm and soft, so cooked it up for dinner. Mmm!

Riding across the Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt lake - in full gear early in the morning at -10 degrees Celsius.

I have deleted the photo of me cycling nude on the salar the same day. As I was approaching my 50th birthday, I donned my birthday suit that lay wrinkled and discarded in some forgotten place. It wasn't a case of voluntary censorship but just in the interests of good taste. Because, who wants to see a 50-year old bum on a bicycle?

Flat out on the salt flat! 160 kms on salt!

For more photos and text go to this blog:

http://andesbybike.blogspot.com/

SOUTH AMERICA BY NUMBERS

Distance (in kms):

total distance/daily average

Colombia 1975/66
Ecuador 1217/68
Peru 3983/65
Bolivia 1400/48
Chile 2176/63
Argentina 3072/71

Total: 13,823kms

Road Surface: (in kms)

sealed/dirt roads

Colombia 1704/271
Ecuador 1044/173
Peru 1785/2195
Bolivia 269/963 + 185kms salt
Chile 929/1256
Argentina 2258/814

Sealed: 59% Dirt: 40% Salt: 1%

Altitude gain (vertical metres):

total altitude/daily average

Colombia 20,180/670
Ecuador 19,565/1090
Peru 54,830/915
Bolivia 12,010/400
Chile 11,425/340
Argentina 18,000/430

Total: 136,000 vertical metres

Costs:
no. of days/money spent
$US (per person)/

daily average

Colombia 49 days / $1000 / $21
Ecuador 28 days / $420 / $15
Peru(2008) 40 days / $610 / $15
Peru(2009) 77 days / $910 / $12
Bolivia 44 days / $335 / $8
Chile 65 days / $1000 / $16
Argentina 68 days / $925 / $14

Pete’s budget: 371 days US$5190
US$14 per day

Cycling vs. Backpacking- a personal view

I wrote this piece when I returned from South America. It gives a personal view on the advantages of travelling as a cyclist compared with the experiences of a backpacker (i.e. from a Latin American perspective).

Cycling gives the traveller freedom and independence. It is a cheaper, cleaner and healthier form of transport. And, remarkably, it is safer.

Freedom and Independence

A cycle tourist (or touring cyclist) has more independence than the backpacker. With his/her own form of transport the cyclist can stop where he wants to marvel for ages at the unfettered scenery in peace. The landscape is not blemished by a filthy window or obscured by dust and not whizzing passed in a blur. Instead of being deposited at a crowded bus station with touts and thieves hassling you, you can look for a secluded and quiet campsite unbothered by anyone. Not staying in the Lonely Planet gringo hotel where all backpackers congregate, meeting only other foreigners. On a bicycle you are constantly engaging with the local population, laughing with them, marvelling at their culture and sharing something special. It is improvised, unplanned and authentic.

To really appreciate this sense of independence, I had to take the odd bus (3 in all) between towns and it proved to be a drab, boring and uncomfortable experience. You feel like leaping out of the window and getting back on your rolling wheels. In Tibetan it is called jota, or iron horse. So, it's a hankering to get back on the saddle and to be a lung ta, or wind horse. (Actually in Patagonia wind was the predominant factor).

Safety

In South America I was initially concerned about safety, especially threats of robbery, kidnapping and political unrest. However, I found out cycle-touring was in fact safer than travelling by local transport. The bus drivers are death-defying madmen and I saw the tragic evidence of many accidents littering the dangerous Andean roads. Also we met many backpackers who were robbed by professional thieves lurking in bus and railway stations and around ‘gringo’ hotels. On a bicycle you don’t frequent crowded transport hubs and you are less vulnerable cycling through large towns and cities than the lone walking backpacker. Camping in the wild can expose you to danger but we were always well hidden and well away from the road. We were often seen camping by locals but no-one bothered us. After nearly 14,000kms we arrived at our destination unscathed, without losing a single item to theft. (In comparison, when I travelled through Peru on my own as a backpacker in 1985 I had 4 robbery attempts on me and 2 were successful).

The Philosophy and Psychology of Cycling

I took up cycle touring in 2001 after a climbing accident (Mt. Geryon, Tasmania). I suffered a badly fractured ankle which ruled out overnight hiking for a few years (ie. carrying heavy loads). So, on a trip to Canada I bought a canary yellow, oversized Cannondale (OK, it went cheap cheep like a canary) and a BOB trailer.

On returning home to Tasmania, I set off on a trip in Central Australia, riding through the rugged Flinders Ranges, the Oodnadatta track and on the edges of the Simpson Desert. I travelled with an old mate of mine (Stu Graham) and we were totally self-sufficient. This trip was like an epiphany to me - the vast open outback country where the days were as endless as the horizon. Camping wild in sandy dry creek beds and riding on rough tracks brought a carefree simplicity to our lives. Away from the madding crowd and boring and frivolous suburban society, your life becomes a joy and not a chore. Waking up in a tent, getting breakfast ready, packing up the bike and riding off into the unknown gives my life a completeness. I keep cycling now to recapture that pared-down, simple, self-reliant, nomadic existence I first experienced in the outback in 2001. I was ecstatic and moved by the multi-coloured painted deserts, the vast emptiness and big sky, and the stillness and tranquility of the arid environment. I re-discover this body-mind-spirit thrill each time I set forth on cycling expeditions.

Cycling out there on lonely, remote roads gives you an intense feeling difficult to describe. The Perth band, the Triffids, captured some of this feeling in their song "Wide Open Road"......
The sky was big and empty
My chest filled to explode
I yelled my insides out at the sun
At the wide open road.

Cycling Trips 2003-9. When, Where & Who

· 2003 Eastern Tibet (with Rob Cooper, friend)

· 2005 Eastern Tibet (with Judy, partner)

· 2006 Trans Tibet -Yunnan, China to Kathmandu Nepal (solo)

· 2007 Australia -Alice Springs to Adelaide via Simpson Desert (w/4 special mates)

· 2008-9 Sth America Andean ride - Colombia to Patagonia (solo 2008 w/Judy 2009)

The solo rides are the most intense, where you really feel ‘out there’. It’s nice to have company to share the long days on the road but the solitude and aloneness adds a new dimension to the trip. Just you, the elements and your shadow on the ground.

The Good, the Bad & the Beautiful
Like the high mountain passes, cycling has its ups and downs. Here are some personal ones.

Bad moments - mishaps and downers

· Tibet – rabid aggressive Tibetan mastiffs. I was always in fear of these beasts as I rode through towns, security posts and nomad settlements. Only speed, rocks and the pink sausages would save me from a fate worse than death. The choice is in the moment and situation (quick thinking needed here!). In the vein of the kids game of 'paper, rock, scissors', I call this trio - sanger, rock, clappers (as in 'go like the clappers' - bloody quick, which is no small thing at over 4000m).

· Tibet- climbing my last pass in Tibet Larung La at 5200m with a bad bout of food poisoning. High altitude and bad stomachs don’t mix too well.

· Tibet- riding through towns with security posts (6 times) at 4-5am in -20 degrees Celsius temperatures. Lurking dogs keeping me alert. Pitch-black darkness and passed the sleeping security. Chinese PSB (Public Security Bureau) try to stop independent travellers from entering Tibet from the east as it is illegal.

· Tibet- the day my mate, Rob Cooper lost his bicycle. It was stolen by Tibetan bandits as we camped in a remote area of Sichuan province. Rob was terribly disappointed and returned to Indonesia.

· Central Australia- carrying 25 litres of water and 7 days of food in the BOB along the waterless and rough Old Andado track. A difficult route with heavy loads - thick sand & corrugations.

· South America – Peru. On June 7 2008 I fell on a bad rocky stretch of road and broke my collarbone. It was quite remote, I was alone and it took me 4 days to get to Lima and another 3 to get back to Tasmania. It was a painful ordeal. After some excruciating manipulation by a huesero, or 'bone man' in Lima, and the lack of painkillers on the 20 hour flight across the Pacific, I arrived in Tasmania a shadow of my former self. The bone took over 6 months to heal. I returned to Peru with Judy the following year to complete the ride (north of where I fell off the previous year).

South America- Patagonia – the Land of Tempest. The winds of Patagonia are hard to describe. We had 140kph headwinds in Argentina (we pushed our bikes all day to go 28kms!). 120kph tailwind into Punta Arenas, Chile. I reached 57kph without pedaling for 10kms! And lateral crosswinds try to push you into cars- leaning your body and bike into the wind was the best strategy.

Here is a video of the 120 kph tailwind hurtling towards Punta Arenas, Chile. Look at my feet, no pedalling and still clocking 47 kph on the flat!
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You can see more videos of the Patagonian winds on my other blog- http://andesbybike.blogspot.com/ (scroll down page to post on Jan 3, 2010) and find 'Land Of Tempest'- 3 videos of crosswind, headwind and tailwind on the pampa.

· South America - Bolivia. Dust storm between Uyuni and Atocha Sept 2009. Judy disappeared and lost her way in the wild dust storm. 2 metre visibility. Little water, no camping, so we had to ride all day. Rode the last hour in the dark. 108 kms, 10 hours on the bicycle seat!

Travel History

I embarked on my first overseas trip in 1982 and over the last 30 years I’ve travelled in over 80 countries. I’m drawn to those places which have rich indigenous cultures and wild and remote landscapes, particularly mountain environments. I usually travel rough and try to explore off the beaten track. In the 1980’s and 1990’s I spent almost 7 years on the road, backpacking on six continents and trekking in wild terrain. Since a climbing accident in 2001, I’ve rediscovered the joys of cycling and now all my expeditions are by bicycle - or ‘rough road touring’ as I like to call it.

Travel - the Incurable Disease

It’s often difficult to describe wanderlust and the incessant desire to travel to unknown territories. I think the Polish traveller/correspondent Ryszard Kapuscinski summed it up perfectly in Travels with Herodotus (2007) –

“A journey, after all, neither begins in the instant we set out, nor ends when we have reached our doorstep once again. It starts much earlier and is really never over, because the film of memory continues running on inside of us long after we have come to a physical standstill. Indeed, there exists something like a contagion of travel, and the disease is essentially incurable”.

Here are some photo from the road (Jude took photos # 1,2,4,6&7 - stern copyright orders).